Wednesday, May 10, 2023

If Not By Train Then By Car

 Our Durango-Silverton train excursion was truncated to a Durango-Cascade Canyon excursion due to a lingering snowpack at the pass to Silverton.  But we had not come all this way to not see an old mountain mining town that had been on our list of things to do for decades.  Fortunately for us there is more than one way to get to Silverton.  It's called the Million Dollar Highway.  

There are many explanations about how the highway got its name but two legends are currently the favorites.  One legend states that the road was built using a million dollars worth of gold and silver tailings, while another claims the nickname originates from an exhausted traveler who proclaimed: “I would not travel that road again for a million dollars!” Either way, the highway was completed in 1883 and the name quickly stuck.

Our goal for the day, Silverton, CO.
All covered in a fresh 3" blanket of snow from last night.
The drive from our base camp in Ignacio through Durango and on to the the Million Dollar Highway, aka State Highway 550, started out sunny, warm and dry.  Durango has completely thawed out from a record breaking winter and is running full tilt.  Silverton, on the other hand, is not there yet.  It is still in winter mode with only two public businesses open, the Tourist/Visitor Center/Museum and a coffee shop.

So this is one of those times that it is more about the journey than the destination.  And what a drive this journey was.

We were only a short ways out from Durango and remnants 
of winter became evident.
And then the scenery got good.
This is Purgatory, CO.

The rugged Rockies as seen from the Million Dollar Hwy 

Up we go!
One of several 8% grades.

Cold, crisp, crystal clear mountain air.  And NO GAURD RAILS!

On top of the world!
Approaching Molas Pass.

A look back at our last 8% grade.
Molas Pass is coming.

Last long climb before Molas Pass Summit.  Again, no guard rails!

Made it!
Molas Pass Summit comfort station still buried in snow.
We'll either have to make yellow snow or hold it till we get to Silverton.

Molas Pass Summit
Elevation 10,910 FT

Looking north from Molas Pass Summit.
High altitude winds are kicking up a blizzard on the peaks.

Molas Pass Summit.
Cyndee's little SUV has the place to itself.

The peaks just above the Molas Pass sign are stunning
looking and really showing the high altitude winds


It's all downhill (steep) from Molas Pass to Silverton, but scenic.

First stop, Silverton Visitor Center.  This is a stock photo, 
I was in a hurry making a mad dash to the public facilities 
and didn't get any pictures of my own with all the snow.
The one person on duty at the visitor center told us about the 3" of fresh snow that came last night and expressed her weariness with winter.  She also told us we were a little early for doing any sightseeing.  Other than the visitor center there was only one other public access business open in the whole town, a little coffee shop on Main St that could also make you a sandwich.
View from inside the coffee shop in Silverton, CO
Now all that was left to do was to reverse our course and return to Durango for some shopping and a bite to eat.  What a day.

Tuesday, May 9, 2023

Time To Take Inventory

I started to write about the next adventure but in organizing the information I found myself mixing up what we did and when we did it.  Listing stuff wasn't working for me so I tried mapping it.
The big picture.  Starting at Allatoona Lake, GA then moving base camp to Livingston, TX.  Lots of fun stuff while in Livingston, see below.  Then to KS for rig repair, then back to TX for our winter stay at Granger Lake, see below, and now we are almost all the way to our summer destination, Red Canyon Visitor Center, Dutch John, UT.
You can click on any image to enlarge it.
The Escapees RV Club headquarters in Livingston, TX made a great base camp for day tripping.  Our sightseeing and family visiting trips racked up a little over 1,000 miles.
Once we moved to our winter volunteer position at Granger Lake, TX, the miles really started piling up.  We got in over 2,700 miles visiting family, friends and touristing.
 Okay, it took several hours to create the maps, mostly because I kept having to do them over to get them right but I have a pretty good reference tool now.  I'll probably have to supplement this with all the driving around we have been doing in New Mexico, Colorado and Utah.

By the way, all those stars and hearts on the maps are places we have camped over the years.  Google maps remembers all the places I have tagged and displays them any time I open the mapping app.

Monday, May 8, 2023

We've Moved. Hello Colorado!

 

Goodbye rustic, hello up-town!  We made the climb from Ft Sumner, NM to Ignacio, CO., a neighboring town of Durango.  It is early in the season for Durango and many of their services are not up and running yet, especially RV parks.  And the ones that are have nightly rates that made my eyes bug out.  We found a Casino resort in a very small town 17 miles to the southeast of Durango that also had an RV park.  With our Passport America and Good Sam discounts it got the rate down from excruciatingly painful to just painful.  And wouldn't you know it, instead of it being our usual two-night layover we were in for an extended stay of 11 days.

But no more dirt and gravel for us, no sir.  It's asphalt roads, concrete pads, poured curbs, and a driveway to park your car in.

There is no campground host or anybody that watches over the RV park that we can tell.  All administrative duties such as checking in, paying, etc. are done at the hotel registration desk inside the Casino.  We pulled in and picked a spot, we had our choice of any of the 54 sites except the lone one that was occupied.  Despite the photograph above, this place had only been open 4 days and we were only the second rig to check in.

We'd been driving for four hours, all uphill, some very steep climbs, and it was around 1:00pm.  We were tired, thirsty and hungry.  So having picked a spot and not knowing exactly how Skye Ute's process worked, we decided to head over to the hotel registration desk before unhooking and setting up.  We knew that we were going to go find something to eat as soon as we got checked in so we chose to drive Cyndee's SUV the quarter mile around to the hotel entrance, cargo trailer still attached.  Check-in was easy but slow, they were still knocking the cobwebs out after being down all winter.

While waiting we took note of several eating establishment just a few steps from the registration desk.  We weren't going to have to go far to get something to eat.

This is pretty up-scale dining compared to our last couple of weeks.
All checked in and fed we returned to the RV park and completed all our setting up chores.  Utilities were all connected, rig was leveled, slideouts deployed and antennas locked onto signals.  We are settling in for an extended stay.

One of the less pleasant aspects of being a fulltimer that is someplace new every few days/weeks/months is accessing health care.  Doubly so when you are plunked down in a remote area.  But stuff comes up and you have to act.  Such as it is this week, the last week of April.  Moving north with the spring bloom has kept both of us at the height of our pollen allergies and all that sneezing and congestion has caught up with Cyndee.  She has a well developed sinus infection and I have a need to see a dermatologist (not because of allergies).

Cyndee can get quick access via an urgent care facility but dermatologists in the Durango area are booked out four months in advance.  Lots of phone calls later I was able to find a cancelation for a PA at a dermatology clinic in Farmington, NM., a little over an hour away from Ignacio.

We made the most of our trip back to New Mexico and did a grocery run at Farmington's Super Walmart as well as enjoying a soup and salad lunch at Olive Garden.  Cyndee came home with a sack full of antibiotics and I had a few big blisters from liquid nitrogen and a hole in my chest from a biopsy.

But none of that is slowing us down.  We've got first class tickets on the Durango-Silverton narrow gauge railroad.  This train excursion is something I have wanted to do ever since I first read about it in the late 1970's.  Cyndee has been working on surprising me with tickets for weeks.  Can't wait.

And here we go!

The 493 steam engine is one of several that the Durango-Silverton operates.  But like I said earlier, we're here a little early in the season and the train can not yet go all the way to Silverton.  So we are on the "Winter Train" that goes to Cascade Canyon, a little more than half way to Silverton.
Cyndee got us tickets for the Knight Sky car, a glass topped car with lots of windows for seeing all there is to see.  This car also comes with complimentary mimosas, muffins an insulated tumbler and a shopping bag.  As if Cyndee needed another shopping bag.  I think the back of her little SUV is squatting from the weight of all the shopping bags she has acquired.  And to top it off she sweet talked our car's conductor out of an extra one.

We slowly chugged through town and then the view began to open up.
Then the climb started.
She'll be coming 'round the bend!
Cyndee got some really nice shots that included the Animas River below.

Crossing the Animas River.  Currently swollen with melt water from record breaking snowfall.

Pulled in for a service stop to take on water for the boiler.  Look close and you can see the boom being pulled down to the engine.
After the train got some refreshment it was time for us to get some too.  We pulled into Cascade Canyon and took our box lunches out to a picnic table and enjoyed lunch al fresco between the train tracks and the Animas River.
Our lunch break was long enough that a short hike to a footbridge over the river was possible.  There was still a good bit of snow on the trail in the shaded areas but the hike was easy.
The Animas River is kicking up its heals.  Record snowfall this past winter is turning into spring melt flood warnings all along this river and many others.
The engineer is signaling with three long whistles that there is ten minutes till departure for the return to Durango.  Time to get a move on.
And this beautiful sight greeted me when I got back.
The trip back was just as beautiful.  Didn't feel repetitive at all because the view was looking in directions not seen when going the opposite direction.
Arrival at the Durango Depot.  I sent this clip to our daughter and the grandson keeps asking her to show it to him again.  Turn on the sound of your device(the train sounds are pretty good) and click the link.

Like good tourists, we hit the gift shop on our way out and picked up patches to sew on our travel blanket and post cards for the grandkids.  Did a few minutes of shopping downtown and then called it a day.  While we didn't make it to Silverton by train today we'll make it tomorrow by car.  We're going to do the Million Dollar Highway.

Thursday, May 4, 2023

New Mexico, The Geography, The History

 

El Malpais, New Mexico
The move from Ft. Sumner to Milan went really well.  Since leaving Granger Lake we have only been using secondary state highways and county roads, no major highways or interstates.  There have been a few miles of rough road that is long overdue for repaving but overall a very good driving experience.  The new truck is performing well.  It is fuel hungry though, not yet broke in at little more than 10,000 miles.  Between the wind and the ever increasing elevation, the mileage is running about 8.5mpg.  Cyndee's little SUV pulling the equally little cargo trailer is getting 20+mpg.  Of course we have been using her SUV to do all our grocery getting and sightseeing so it is racking up the miles out here in the wide open west.

So, for this post I am forgoing a lot of narration and just posting a bunch of pictures.  We saw so many beautiful sites and there were so many pictures.

El Malpais

El Malpais National Monument Visitor Center.
El Malpais

El Malpais

El Malpais

El Malpais.  This is as close as Cyndee will get to the edge.

View to the east from El Malpais

Me on the other hand, right to the edge.

Our first of many crossings of the Continental Divide this trip.
Elevation 7,882

El Malpais


El Malpais, La Ventana Arch
You have to squint your eyes to see the arch in this two dimensional 
representation.
El Morro
El Morro is on the other side of the valley from El Malpais.  Its claim to fame is its petroglyphs.
El Morro National Monument Visitor Center
Access is very controlled to this ancient history.  Paved walkways are to be used and not deviated from.
El Morro.
Foot bridge approach to petroglyphs

Gopher Snake
Ran across this fellow at the entrance to the foot bridge.
So far our only encounter of the snake kind.

El Morro

Pour off at El Morro
This must be quite a sight when it is raining.

Some of the more ancient glyphs

Telling the story of bighorn sheep

There were also carvings of Spanish Conquistadors and 
early settlers.
Aztec

Aztec Ruins Visitor Center

A reconstructed kiva on an ancient foundation

Some of the best preserved examples of tri-wall construction.
A building with a wall within a wall within a wall
with these small, almost crawl spaces to get from one to the next.

A kiva, one of several at Aztec

A kiva and dwellings of a once thriving city
Chaco Canyon

You really have to want to go to Chaco Canyon to tolerate 
15 miles of dirt road with severe washboard, ruts and rock outcroppings.
It took us an hour, each way, just for the dirt road portion.
Once inside the park boundaries things become civilized again.
Paved roads, visitor center, electricity and water.

A couple hundred feet of cliff broke off and fell on the ancient dwellings.

What can I say?  I just liked the way the light looked.

That's Cyndee taking in one of the massive walls that remain standing.

Chaco Canyon's Puebloan structures have numerous and large windows, 
not all that common amongst these structures. 

Lots of kivas (the round structures) in this huge dwelling.

Thousands of people once lived here.

Massive walls to support a sometimes 3-story structure.

Another example of a tri-wall construction technique.

Fajada Butte as seen looking south from the dwellings.

Our day in Chaco Canyon ended as it began with a little
drama in the sky.
Well folks, that's New Mexico for us.  We're headed for Colorado next.  We've got our sights set on a casino RV park in Ignacio, CO, about 17 miles from Durango.